I have long and often said that my greatest asset is my friends. I often get credit for events and experiences that would not be possible were it not for the generosity and outgoing qualities of people who let me hang around. This past week I had another of those wonderful moments.I have a friend who is a member of what I call the Escoffier Society (but what is technically Les Amis d'Escoffier Society of New York, Inc.) and who invited me to join him one night for dinner. Now let me apologize right up front since I was NOT taking notes and after eating and drinking, some of the technical points may be a little fuzzy or may have disappeared altogether. But what I do remember - I herewith share.
The event was held at the Intercontinental Barclay, one of the oldest and more elegant hotels in NY. The Director of Catering and the Executive Chef were in charge of preparing and coordinating the evening. We were perhaps 50, certainly no more. (A few tried to sneak in and were politely but firmly escorted elsewhere. They certainly did not eat with us. Come to think of it, there were a few coats lef tin the checkroom... ah well, whatever.)
In the interval between arriving and formally beginning, there were wines and drink available at the bar and passed hors'd'oeuvres. There was duck breat, with chipotle and a blueberry sauce served on an edible spoon, a wild mushroom mixture on a slice of toasted bread (or was that a cracker?), scallops, salmon tartare served in a cone made with squid ink, and a piquant tomato in a glass with a dollop of creme fraiche. Well, talk about diversity of flavor and texture. Most of the people in the room are in the food industry and almost everyone knows everyone, so I met a lot of people who came to introduce themselves because they KNEW they didn't know me. I did know a couple of people besides the folks I came with but not many.
WINES - the wines were carefully selected to balance and complement the meal moments and they were wonderful. The Moscato was breath-taking. You read Moscato and think sweet - well, this wine (A Gallo Twin Valley offering) had about five different flavors going on and hitting the tongue in several different places. Some thought it too strong for the dessert but I thought it provided a counterpoint rather than an accompaniment. But that was my favorite.
Although the Malbec was a delight all by itself. I am only a moderate wine drinker (outside of church., of course - and altar wine is usually awful. (I once was saying to a group of people that I was surprised how few people took advantage of receiving Holy Communion under both species, and one woman spoke up, "Well, Father, if you had better wine...") So when I drink wine, I want it to be really good. This was. Really good.
The opening wine was very nice, but the appetizer was so extraordinary that nothing could have shone with that taste event going on.
FOOD
Ah yes - the food. Why we were all there, after all. The chef is apparently very well-known for his risotto. If this was an example, I can well see why. The risotto was firm and the texture consistent. Presentation was simple, a generous serving in the center of a potage bowl with the sauce around and a small lobster clas resting on the center portion. Lots of lobster bits within the dish itself and a rich flavor throughout. The stock had been well rendered down,the shells braised or baked (?) but the result was magnificent.
But at an event like this one keeps raising the bar and the entree was way up there. The veal was a large serving, and the zest was between the bresaola and the meet, with some other spices or elements that were not identified on the menu. The general feeling at my table ran to a Chinese pepper of similar spice since there was a tang more than the zest would provide. Turned out to be a chipotle - which surprised pretty much everyone. A good reminder that there is a range of chipotle - flavor, texture and certainly strength. It took a serious effort not to suck on the bone.
The potatoes were simple and elegant, decorating the fava bean and fontina puree, which added another texture and a surprising taste to the mix. The cheese was felt on the tongue before the flavor snuck through. A nice balance to the veal.
I confess by the end of the entree I was starting to slow down. The conversation was fascinating, since we had several food people at our table, including the head of the Escoffier Society. As dessert was being served, the chef came out from the kitchen, pulled up a chair and sat at our table. (That's how I know about the chipotle.) The baked apple was a small apple, firm and sliced for easy handling. The gelato was wonderful - perhaps a little strong for the plate but a wonderful back and forth between the two. There was also a curled chocolate swirl (of white and milk chocolate) that I left alone. With the other flavors going on - and the wine (!) - I couldn't really find a place for it. But what do I know?I'm an old dinner theatre manager.
Now the ticket for this soiree is not at McDonald levels. But I have to say, I think we received far more value than was paid. (Note the clever cpmstruction which makes clear to the observant reader than I did not actually pay for this.)
Service, of course, was spot on, efficient without being annoying. Wines were poured, glasses and plates cleared, and if one needed anything, pretty much an indication of the head and there it was, whatever "it" was.
All in all the sort of evening that delights the taste buds and confounds the waistline.
