MONDAY - OCTOBER 18

MONDAY, OCTOBER 18 – Feast of St. Luke, and the anniversary of the assassination in Lagos. Somehow, in spite of good intentions and deep desires to sleep late, I am awake after about six hours, and I mean awake – not going back to sleep. So I was at breakfast by 7 – it is still dark at 7. Which is nice, watching the sun come up. Except that today the clouds are dark and full and sunrise is more black turning into grey. I ate lightly – in spite of an earlier comment, I don’t think I am going to come off the ship significantly lighter or smaller than I boarded. I went to one of the lounges – empty, of course – to pray and watch the heavy rain falling. Lovely. And quiet. Because the lounge was closed, no one thought it necessary to pipe in music, which is the case in virtually every other area of the ship except out on deck.

A couple of hundred people boarded the ship in Istanbul, so they had their orientation meetings and drills yesterday afternoon, and last night and today are engaged in wandering the ship, learning the geography. There are “rehearsals” for the last night talent show this morning. One can’t tell if that is auditions, or if everyone who shows up gets to perform. Several of our group are hot for me to take part, and I am (strangely) ambivalent. Certainly could be a good way to get the Xavier Society name in front of a lot of people. But it would also mean staying for the whole show. For all I know there could be magnificent talent on board. I am still reluctant. The call today takes place during the time we had scheduled for Mass, so I may be able to hide behind that – or show up just to see what’s going on. I did not bring any music, although I do have some accompaniment CD’s with me.

This afternoon we are supposed to go to Mykonos, which Yanni is going to lead us to as an individual (unpaid) visit. I will certainly be heading for an internet site – I am assuming there may be calendar proofs to look at, I have to send birthday greetings to people I have missed over the last several days, and I may be able to upload these latest ramblings. I am in one of the cocktail lounges as I write this – the sea has small whitecaps, and while the clouds overhead are dark grey, there is light on the horizon (at least on the port side) and no idea what the weather might be like for the afternoon. People are going by on their way to breakfast, and other small groups are sitting here talking and enjoying the view. Of course, rock music playing in the background, although more softly than usual. Grateful for small favors.

Time for Mass, so I went down and put together the Mass kit. The library was open and being used, so I went and sat in the Metropolitan Lounge for a bit. Mass was nice – several people not there, I know two had massage appointments. An Australian chap who had come in to use the library stayed for Mass. Several people had talked last night about singing – I was sort of hoping they’d forget the idea but they hadn’t, so we did, and it was very nice. I preached about the anniversary – it was on this date eleven years ago that I found myself in the middle of the assassination attempt. After Mass I stopped in the talent show sign ups but all I saw were people sitting in different areas either reading or chatting. Went into the lounge and had a Bloody Mary – thought I’d do some reading. The sea has gotten much rougher, the ship is definitely moving, and rain and grey clouds. But as I was starting my drink, the team trivia contest was also just starting. Sigh. Off to find a quiet spot. Not possible. The upstairs lounge where I had prayed this morning had a private function going on. The pool deck had a very loud drink making exhibition. All the chairs in the casino were filled, ditto the seating area outside Reception (where I had also gone earlier to change the tip totals for the cruise) – so I ended up back in my cabin, feeling a little curmudgeonly. I can only imagine what this ship is like if it is running at capacity. It’s not just the crowds but the accompanying volume with which people think it necessary to make announcements.

I did head back after a bit because the pool deck had a gyro station, and I love lamb. I stopped en route at the Rendez Vous lounge and ended up singing a couple of songs again, with a large group present, including several of the staff. The cruise director, the social activities lady, thinks I have a “magnificent” voice – who am I to argue. I made a strategic disappearance after some singing and headed up for lunch and the gyro. Turned out to be a chicken gyro station. Sigh. Not a day to buy a lottery ticket.

The ship is heading for Mykonos, but plowing through moderate seas and heavy rain. Things cleared a bit as we approached the fabled island. We had a short meeting, back to get things together and the traditional gathering for departure. There are shuttle buses that take passengers from the new cruise ship port (handles two hips at a time, and a much larger ship was already ahead of us in one berth, and we got the other.) Drops you off about a ten minute walk from the center of the town. There was a tour to the ruins of Delos – good luck to those folks, because the rain continued, alternating between moments of calm to absolute downpour – by the time we got to the center, we were all pretty much soaked. Bob and I peeled off and headed for an internet café, and found a real café on the waterfront with wifi – ie, no charge. So we ordered beers, and later on fries, and settled in. His computer only has about two hours of battery life, so after a bit he moved inside where there was electricity, I did as much as I could, and then wandered about the town for a bit. I did not get to the windmills, I did get to meet Pete the Pelican. As I hit the boat, the rain poured, and lightning across the bay is always dramatic.

The picture is our guide, Yanni, standing on the shore of Mykonos, at a rare quiet interval between rain downpours.

Had a wash, changed clothes and headed to the lounge for a drink, and then dinner in our private little dining room. Two of our group treated us to champagne – I asked what the occasion was and they said my anniversary – I think the morning homily had an impact. We tend to spend a full two hours at the table, which most seem to enjoy, but the staff ain’t crazy about. Tonight, there were fewer people serving, and we certainly could have been out and finished much sooner, if the service had been more efficient. I went to the lounge and ordered an Irish coffee and was sitting there as others come by. Elizabeth, the cruise director, came past and I asked her how the wedding had gone. We (the group) chatted with her for a bit, and I asked her if it was ok if I sang occasionally – I didn’t want to step on anyone’s toes. She said yes, and at that moment the piano was playing Moon River, so I jumped in. And a bit later did Torna a Sorrento. Nice reception. One  had left her card in her room – so I walked her to the desk to arrange for someone to let her in. I went back to the lounge, but the conversation was loud (to the obvious annoyance of some of the patrons who wanted to listen to the music) and very negative in tone, all about events that were over and resolved. So I wandered off. The pool deck was deep in a Latin dance event, it was pouring rain and getting rougher, so I figured it was probably time to go to bed. So I did.

SUNDAY - OCTOBER 17

Sunday, October 17 – Memorial of St. Ignatius of Antioch, 2^nd bishop of Antioch after St. Peter. I was awakened at 6:55 by a pounding on the door – one of our group with a ticket for the day’s excursion wasn’t going to go and did I want to go? Had he pounded on the door at 6:30, I would have been off in a flash. But the group was supposed to gather at 7 for a 7:10 departure. Shower, brush teeth, dress, get food – not gonna happen in ten minutes. So I passed. Sigh – another life-changing opportunity lost.

When I did rouse myself – which was not too much later, because having been awakened, I could not go back to sleep – rats – the sun was coming out. Had breakfast with some folks from Honolulu who had boarded last night. Flight from Hono to Atlanta, and Atlanta to Istanbul, There were a trifle jet-lagged. Took coffee up outside – weather very nice, and lots of sun, although there are grey clouds that could be worrisome. Met another couple of New Brunswick and we chatted for a while. I went to the stern where there are chairs and tables for a quiet read of the morning hours, and found someone already in the Jacuzzi. I was immediately tempted but he told me it wasn’t hot – tepid even. I sat to read/pray, but somehow someone thought that the environment of a beautiful harbor with gorgeous scenery was enhanced by having loud, thumping music playing. Sigh. I disagreed, so I got up and wandered elsewhere where the ambience was less inviting but the silence infinitely greater. OK, I admit it, I am not a crowd person. Unless they are audience. Then the more the merrier.

We are twenty in our group – three are off on their own, meeting a friend in Istanbul. Two others are also on their own – one had been a flight attendant, and had visited the city a lot. Thirteen are on the tour, the one person who decided (at the last minute!) not to go and me – so there are only the two of us on the ship at the moment. Yanni says I can do internet at Mykonos on Monday, so depending on the weather I may go ashore later just to walk around – but it seems a day for going over the material for the calendar, reviewing the music for the CD recordings, working on the speech for Buffalo which I to deliver the day after I land, and of course, it’s never too early to work on the concerts for November and December – and at least two of those are new material, so I have to write a script and coordinate music. Yeah, that will keep me occupied. There is a Captain’s cocktail party tonight, dinner, and then Mass, since everyone will have been away all day. There is another show tonight – we’ll see. We sail at 7, so heading out the straits and back into the open sea is also fun to be on deck for.

It turned out to be a quiet sort of day. I spent some time on deck sitting in the sun (watched the crew paint the smokestack, and watched a large cruise ship dock in front of us) and the went to get a drink – a nice Sunday morning Bloody Mary. I had had one yesterday and it was very nice and included in the drink package I had opted for. This morning I was told there would be an extra charge. I will not bore you with the back and forth but while the staff was very nice and polite and wanting to be helpful, it was “the policy” and there was nothing they could do. Fair enough. So I told the bar manager – quietly and gently – that I was going to visit every bar on the ship several times a day, and at each bar I would buy a drink, stink my finger in it, and move on. I figured by the end of the cruise I could cost them between 400 and 500 euro. 

Suddenly he found a way to change the policy so I could get a Bloody Mary. The bartender and the waiter are Filipino, and they had said, before the bar manager got involved, that they could “take care” of me. But I told them if someone caught them, they they would get in trouble, and that was not what I wanted either. So we ended up with everyone happy. Well, maybe not the bar manager, but he should have been, because you know me, I would have done the visiting the bar routine.

I had lunch in one of the sit down restaurants. In the evening we have reserved seating – in fact our group has a small private dining room, which everyone continues to enjoy very much. But breakfast and lunch are open seating, and there are buffets and special food stations, and you get to try out all the different eating areas. Chatted with a retired teacher and his wife, who is an art teacher, from Minnesota. And went to lie down for little in my cabin. Spent some more time on deck in the sun, and then it was time for a shower and a change of clothes for the Captain’s cocktail party.

The “invitation” in the daily newsletter said dress for the event was “Elegant attire”. Closest thing I have is clerics, so I put on a black shirt, Roman collar and the black suit. Wore my silver cross for emphasis, put a Xavier Society for the Blind button on my lapel and off I went. As I got off the elevator, I found a long queue, so I followed directions and went around and discovered that the queue was even longer – and the reason was that before you approached the room where the ”party” was, there was a station through which everyone went where they took your picture against a moonlight backdrop. The gangplank picture was 12 euro – I can only imagine what this one costs. At the top of the stairs one is introduced to the captain – and the question, “Do you want a picture with the captain?” My answer – Sorry, I can’t afford it. Probably not what they were expecting.

This event was in the room where they do the shows, so everyone was herded in – past a trio of waiters with trays of drinks, and into seating areas. I slipped off and stood in the back. Nuts on the table, and waiters passing trays of hors d’oeuvres. It was interesting watching people come in. For some, “elegant attire:” meant shorts and a sports shirt. Chacun a son gout, and so forth. One couple in our group was shown in, met the Captain, not asked if they wanted a picture and shown to a table in the very rear of the facility, while there were lots of seats down front. Do you think that the fact that one of the couple is blind and carries a long cane had anything to do with this change in routine? After a bit the captain was introduced, in several languages, and then he introduced his executive staff, everyone applauded and the “party” was over. Sigh. Disappointing at best.

Dinner with the group was interesting. I asked how the day had been and the response was, “The tour from hell.” Apparently the guide, Ahmet we had met yesterday, moved at what one person described as “glacial speed,” and effectively kidnapped the group for almost 3 hours in a department store, where there was a real hard sell to buy things. I’m sorru I wasn’t there, I would have put an end to that in a hurry. Also apparently he was given to telling “Pope” jokes – one of the group if it was then ok to start telling Mohammed jokes, and that seemed to cool his jets a little. And everyone in the group was happy that someone had spoken up. Because of the marathon the group could not return to the ship so lunch was downtown – and (on a 105 euro tour!) they charged for water! And extravagantly. Many of our group are not longer young (and I would have to include myself in that description, of course) and in a day filled with walking, there was no opportunity except lunch to sit down. One of our blind members was ushered to a spot and Ahmet’s idea was that she should sit and wait and he would return later to collect her. Rather like a library book. She, quite rightly, protested, and went her way. All in all – not a successful day.

The one member of our group who had decided at the last minute not to go (remember the pounding on my door at 6:55 episode?) – he announced at dinner that he had spent yesterday afternoon and today at a free wifi place at the harbor. Now you’d think he could have mentioned that to someone? I have been off internet since Friday – I am hoping to find a place tomorrow – and I spent the day on the ship, as he well knew. A note? A message? Ah well – he was happy doing his thing, and apparently his distance from the group is more than just physical. He has said several times what a great trip it is – and when he is around, everyone enjoys him. But he is a slave – dare I say an addict? – to this connection business, and other human or group relations seem to fall away.

The rest of the group is learning about one another, and everyone seems to be having fun. After dinner we had Mass in the library. Very nice, and because it was Sunday, the readings for Mass are in the Mass Propers in Braille, and so three of our blind members took turns doing the readings. At the end of Mass there was a request that we might sing parts of the Mass the next day – and then folks headed off for assorted activities, including the evening Show “From NY to Parish.” I stuck my nose in – after changing out of the clerical suit – didn’t want to scandalize anyone any further when I showed up at the bar – but I sat in the rear, not having great expectations about the show. This time I didn’t stay until the end. Even things as basic as tempo – at once point they started New York, New York – and it was the slowest tempo I have ever heard with that particular piece of music. The amplification is REALLY LOUD – and the singers had the same problem with staying on pitch I had suffered through the night before. Maybe their hearing has been damaged with all the loud music? Again, costumes were lovely, choreography simplistic and awkward, and the soloists seem unaware of the repetitive mannerisms. One of the men has one gesture – he moves his hand (the one not clutching the mike) in front of him and to the side, and then he repeats it – virtually with every phrase of the song. That’s it – his whole repertoire of movement, except that at the very end of the song, he raises his hand a little.

I wandered off. The bar where the young lady plays classical music is just outside the theatre area, so the sound from the stag almost drowned out her playing. And if I had started to sing with her, that sound would (knowing my voice) I feared be heard within the other space. So instead of having another drink, I went back to the cabin, did a little reading, and to bed.

IDLE OBSERVATIONS

Of course, it is not high season, but we are an older group. There are few at the disco an night, and one can always find a spot at the gym. I have seen two children – the ship holds 1200 and my new best friend at the Rendez-Vous lounge tells me that there are a little over 800 on board. No wonder they are so busy hustling money at every opportunity. In the newsletter for Monday there is a note that we will be charged 8 euro a day for tips, unless we want to go to reception and change that to something else. I heard one distinguished gentleman talking about that and the word “Disgraceful” was used several times and with passion. I suspect he will tip more than the total when he is done, but the idea of having it automatically added to the bill really got under his skin. And I don’t disagree with him.

The cruise line is not coming away with high marks.

See the guys painting the smokestack?

SATURDAY - OCTOBER 16

Saturday, October 16 – I got up around 6. Yes, on purpose. Dressed and out to find the early coffee station, and outside on deck as we passed through the Dardenelles. Dark but the fortress was lit, and normal city lights along the shore made it a lovely moment. Cold, and occasional rain splatters. There is a real feeling of accomplishment being awake to see the run rise. There is an early breakfast service, and when I came back for the 3^rd cup I found two of our party there – one had gotten up early to go to the gym and the other, a historian, was out to see the fort and the early part of the passage. We chatted for a bit, and then I went to find the library, where we will have Mass, and to see about printing out the homily I wrote last night. Found that I can’t – and even if I pay the extraordinary (dare I say exorbitant?) price for internet use, I can’t use my thumb drive – nothing can be sent up and nothing can be received. In this day and age to advertise that internet is available and then prohibit any transaction is simply not honest advertising. (Grumble. Snort, Fratsis.) It’s not a question of technology – the equipment is here – someone just decided to limit any possibility of a virus or problem by eliminating all service. Ah well.

Let me give you a sample by sharing this morning’s schedule. Early coffee from 6 am. Buffet breakfast (including a waffle station) from 7:30 to 10 AM. 8 AM a walkathon, wake up and stretch exercises at 8:30 AM. Also at the same time a combined service club meeting – Rotary, Kiwanis and Lions. The library opens at 8:30. Port talk for those going ashore at 9:30, children’s activities start at 10 (although to be honest, I have yet to see any children) An origami class at 10:30 and napkin folding at 10:45.  A fashion show at 11 AM – also at the same time, fruit and vegetable carving. 11:30 AM – Bingo. And Greek cookery lessons. Several musical groups start playing at noon, and lunch is from noon until 2 (Tea is from 4 to 5) A special casino session from 12:30 to 2:30, bridge players at 2, team trivia at 2, Greek dance class at 2:30, and Stop the Bus (I have no idea what that is) Happy hours from 10:45 to 11:45 AM and 7:30 to 8:30 PM – buy one, get one free. We are supposed to dock at 4 and there is an afternoon and a separate evening tour. There is a show art 10 – Night at the Movies, music from great films – there’s jazz and disco dancing at one of the lounges, special drink and dancing sessions, and an on deck description of the shore and sights as we approach Istanbul. Now that doesn’t include the usual photo display, the specials for beauty shops and other places. In short, if you’re bored, it’s your own fault!

I can’t afford the Istanbul tours but I am going to go to the meeting to see what I can learn. I will probably head off by myself to explore and do the best I can. The overriding consideration – DON’T MISS THE BOAT!!!!  They did give us a map yesterday, which helps, but it doesn’t have a scale, so one doesn’t know if we’re talking about two miles or twenty.

As I write this I’m sitting in the cabin, looking out the window. Not a porthole – someone figured out that if you don’t have something that opens, you can have a lot larger window – so there is really a very nice view, and since I am on deck 4, I get to see the wake right outside the window. It’s overcast – grey – although just before 9 AM it’s fairly dark. Not necessarily gloomy but not bright. I’m going to head upstairs to pray the morning hours in the office (finding that I could put my breviary on the Kindle has been a GREAT thing) and pop into the on shore meeting.

I went to the meeting – yet another meeting. Long and full of slides and information and I left before it was over. I missed the napkin folding demonstration (rats! But I can buy a book about folding towels, which looks like it could be fun.) and wandered up on the pool deck. The cover is still on the area, and the sky is dark and grey – but there was a pasta station, doing spaghetti or noodles, and different sauces and different things you can add. Being a simple soul, I just had bacon and noodles – and a cold draft – lovely. Back to the stateroom for a little quiet time and then – another meeting, this time with Yanni and our group to finalize our own tour options. I left that one early too since we were supposed to have Mass in the library. By the time the meeting was over, Mass was about 40 minutes late in starting – and we had missed the on deck narration of coming into port. IN fact as we came out of Mass they were making the first announcements about gathering for the afternoon tour.

The regular tour packages had been disrupted because there is a marathon in town on Sunday, and so streets will be closed for much of the day. Even though Turkey is 97% Muslim, their weekend is Saturday and Sunday and Sunday is the official day off. This is a leftover from the 1920’s move to make the country more “modern,” which in those days meant Western. So the “full day” tour starts on Saturday and continues on Sunday. One of our group bought a ticket, but is only interested in going on Sunday, so I got to go on Saturday. Yanni had arranged our own bus and guide, and off we went. I had volunteered to walk with one of the blind people who is traveling alone, and we had a lovely time. The guide is young, named Sammi, but took the college course for guiding, and has been working for four years.

We rode through the streets, in the “Modern” city – on the Asian side. As you probably know, being highly educated and sophisticated readers, Istanbul (formerly Constantinople – I’ll wait if you want a little of the song. Ready?) is a city split in the middle, with Asia on one side and Europe on the other.  The modern side has architecture reminiscent of the worst days of Russian building, but very modern street cards with tracks in the center of the major roads. Traffic was heavy – it was a Saturday afternoon – and people seem to think traffic signals are pretty lights decorating the corner, but fulfilling no particular function. People walk everywhere – anywhere – at any time – and cars are only marginally better. The idea seems to be that you go through the intersection until the actual moment the light actually turns red – and maybe even a little after that. So a car starting immediately on the green runs a real risk of ramming someone sneaking through the last seconds of red.

We went over a bridge leading into the old city, the European side – a long bridge and people were fishing on both sides. Not a few, but side by side on both sides for virtually the whole length of the bridge. Perhaps a hundred or more fisherman doing their thing on a Saturday afternoon. Past mosques and the train station that was the last stop on the famed Orient Express. Through narrow streets and cobblestones and a mix of shops, modern and looking back to earlier years. We got to a spot, set a time to re-gather and off we went, into

the Grand Bazaar, a covered market area of over 4,000 shops, 18 exits and over 30,000 people working there. Large and crowded, very tourist oriented and bargaining is the rule. Lots of fun. And although I did some bargaining, and taught some of the others in our group some of the basics (Hey, remember I had 12 years of living in Nigeria!) I didn’t buy anything. When we gathered, and one of our group had an encounter with a seller who told her that “this very day” his wife had given birth to a son, and so she should buy something to help him celebrate, that he could take something home for his wife, we headed for the spice bazaar. Now along the way we had picked up a new guide, Ahmet, and he is a slick, older professional guide. In the best oriental style. Very good – very taking care of his people – very connected with local merchants and you KNOW there is a kickback going on here. Which is fine, since he provided a good experience.

The spice bazaar, as the name implies, is mostly spices. Some smaller stalls and other things, although we did not see much of it, since his “contacts are the first two shops just inside the entrance we used. We visited a spice shop and sampled spices and Ahmet gave a not very subtle sales pitch. But the spices are fresh and the prices significantly lower than the US. Next door was a candy shop – Turkish delight in a wide variety of flavors (the mint is not to believed!), dried apricots, nuts in several varieties, figs – you get the idea. And again, sales pitch. And again, good value, and lots of our people bought stuff. I resisted – although the aphrodisiac jelly with a plastic figure of a man with a LARGE erect member was hard to resist. Back to the ship for a late supper.

I was on my way into dinner and passed through a lounge where a young lady was playing piano – and as I walked in, she was starting La Donna e mobile. Now I had been very good about resisting things all day long, and I was plumb out of resistance, so I started singing. Lots of applause. Got talking to someone, and the next thing I know, she was playing Libiamo from Traviata. Then Torna a Sorrento, and ultimately O Sole Mio. Well, you know me. It was fun.

Yanni came by and was somewhat surprised. People had talked about my singing, but he had never heard me sing. I had a drink, and then wandered off. (Notice that I never made it to dinner – I’m going to be the first person in a long time to lose weight on a cruise.) Did some reading and then headed to the big lounge for the evening show, “Music from the Movies.”

Now it’s a cruise show, and one does not go in with great expectations. Which was good, Because even scotch could not help. I assume they all think they’re great. The singers have a very flat sound – unfortunately flat meaning both the richness of the tone and the ability to stay on pitch. The girls are tall, the men agile, the singers mildly painful and the choreography uninspired. The costumes were lovely – but even the creation of the show was disappointing. There is great movie music – much of which was totally ignored. On a screen behind the stage, clips from a film would be shown and on stage, a singer with a song remotely connected to the show (for the film “Amadeus,” a rock song the refrain of which – and virtually the only understandable lyric – was the word “Amadeus,” sung over and over and over and so on.) The show went about 40 minutes – there were times it seemed longer. Where I come from, there are a lot of really talented young performers who are looking for work, and usually the cruise shows can draw on some real talent. Doesn’t seem to be the case here. I will go to a couple of other shows, just to see – but this was a yawn. Loud – but I even dozed a little at the end. If I were casting, there was one young lady with a light baritone voice I would ask back, just to see if she could do anything else – but the right would have their resumes filed in the circular file.

At that point I was ready for bed – or at least quiet. I found an old movie on tv – Victoria and John Brown – and I dozed through some of that and crash around midnight.

FRIDAY - OCTOBER 15

October 15 – Friday. One thing we have learned in Greece (besides that there is no such thing as a deadline – except when you’re on the ship) is that plans change. Up and down for breakfast as the place opened. No one else came, and I was able to have a lovely breakfast and enjoy reading while I ate. Shower and shave – have I mentioned that I have yet to get used to this barbaric (you should pardon the expression) custom of starting the day by dragging a blade across your face? Sigh. And on to the cathedral for Mass. No sign of the sacristan, so I found vestments, and found the hosts, got the sacramentary and lectionary ready – the advantage of having been there two days before. He showed up as I was almost ready to go out. We chatted – the value of a good education that included French – and Mass we was lovely. At the end someone mentioned that our guide, Yani, had said there would be a later departure time than previously announced (See what I mean about plans?) I strolled back, and Yani called my room – seems the Acropolis was going to be open this morning, so we would check out of the hotel around noon, and go to the acropolis, with a stop at Mars Hill, and then on to the boat. And – to make things even nicer – the weather was turning absolutely gorgeous.

I took advantage of the extra time to pack and do some work on the computer, since I wasn’t entirely sure about the internet on the boat. I knew it would be available, but since I had paid for it, I thought I might as well take advantage of it. I checked out the ship which whetted my appetite, and before I knew it, it was time to head out.

Gentle bus ride to the acropolis park (through which I had walked yesterday) and we’re starting to recognize things along the way. The indefatigable, knowledgeable and non-stop talking Mara was with us again. The walk up the hill was out of the range of a couple of the group, so Yanni stayed with them, and we set off. It’s a gentle slope, but slippery and not an easy go in some places. Well, I mean a strapping man like me had no problem with it, but for some, it could have proved a challenge. Two of the four blind members were along with us and they certainly had no problem with the climb.

We stopped en route to look at the musical stadium, which was built by a Roman general in memory of his young wife, and which is still used today for concerts and major events. Mrs. Mara had a drawing of what the place looked like when it was built, with a roof and statues filling all of the back niches – really quite impressive. Seats around 5,000.

Now we had been looking at the Parthenon for several days – in pictures, across the city from the roof of the hotel, from the museum – and we had talked about Parthenon, and many of us knew things about the Parthenon already. So I was really not prepared for what an impression it made to be standing there. Knowing all the mathematics and odd bits about the building increases the sense of wonder, but if I were to have known nothing at all, I am sure that the sheer size and beauty of the building and the site and the realization of how old it is would still have taken my breath away. What they did – in the space of nine years (Yes, that’s how long it took to build – they had money and so they were able to work – at 2,000 years before Christ, mind you – at a pretty good speed. Mrs. Mara said she did not think the building could be duplicated today, and certainly not in that time frame.)

I could overwhelm you with facts and data and stuff you can perfectly well go and read for yourself. At some point I might sit down and do some of that. But right now, I have to confess, the strongest memory is not the data but the image of those huge columns against a gorgeous blue sky, sitting on top of a mountain, overlooking a huge city.

We met as scheduled – well, sort of on schedule – and visited Mars Hill, which is on the way down. Mars Hill? This is the place where Paul preached to the men of Athens, delivering his famous (ie described in the Acts of the Apostles) sermon about having found an altar to “the unknown god.” It’s an impressive rock – and the only solid tie to St. Paul of the day. Before we knew it, time to head off for the boat.

Check in was gentle and easy – the welcome on the boat impressive – the cabin is lovely. We just about had time to get settled in, and suddenly it was time for the lifeboat drill. From there we went to a meeting about life on the boat and the optional tours at the sites we will be visiting, and then it was time for dinner. Well, after the official meeting by the boat people, Yanni talked to us again and pushed people to make their choices about tours. They’re not cheap and that is a concern for some. Not for me – I just can’t go, so that’s actually fairly easy. Exploring Istanbul by myself is a little daunting – but as long as I get back to the ship before it leaves, how much trouble can I get into?

Yanni had arranged for a private dining area for our group – well, for all but two who had decided they wanted the later seating for dinner. Had they not, we probably would not have fit into this space. But it’s very nice and everyone seems pleased. Stressed about the tour choices having to be mad but it’s settling in.

Life on the ship. Well, not everything is exactly as advertised. The information was that internet facilities would be available on the ship. And they are. At 15 euro for one hour. That’s about $23. The information was that smoking was only permitted on deck and in one of the lounges. Fair enough. Only when one gets on board does the small print appear – It is not permitted to smoke cigars or pipes on board. Well dang. The ticket is inclusive – your meals are included, and coffee and water. Soft drinks and fruit juices and specialty coffees (like cappuccino or espresso) those are extra, as are hard drinks. I signed up for an all inclusive ticket – one fee to cover all your drinks for the full 7 days.  WhenI first saw the plan, I thought it was excessive. But when I sat down to do the arithmetic, especially considering the non-alcoholic drinks – well, we’ll see how it comes out, because I did sign up. So I had a drink in the lounge, and a glass of champagne with dinner. I’ll have to do more drinking tomorrow to make up.

There are shows and events not only each night but each moment. I am saying Mass on board in the library, and for Sunday, they are going to announce that Catholic Mass is available. I have NO idea how many people may show up for that – I hope I don’t run out of hosts. There is also – wait for it – a passenger talent show night. Contrary to what the casual reader might think, my first instinct is to become invisible. The range of “talent” is going to tend to modern songs and American Idol wannabe’s. It would be a nice way to get the name “Xavier Society for the Blind” in front of people – but my instinct is still to become invisible. We’ll see.

I like sailing. Or whatever the appropriate term is for moving across the water on a ship that carries 1,200 people. (We are on a ship called Crystal, of the Louis line, if you want to see the ship for yourself. Although at 15 euro an hour, it might all be over before I get the chance to send this up to the blog site so you can actually see it.) The vibration of the engine passes throughout the ship and in a very few moments will lull me to sleep. I did not go to the show this evening – A Mamma Mia night, melodies of Abba – nor did I go to the Bingo (5 euro a card) nor to the disco party nor to any of the other half dozen things going on. Fuddy duddy that I am. But we are passing through the Dardenelles around 6:30 in the morning, and I sort of think I want to be up for that.

We turned in our passports, and we each have a card, like a hotel key card, and it does open the door to my cabin. It also acts as a ship wide charge card, and will be used to check us off and on the boat. (Note – this means that if you miss the boat, not only are you left behind and on your own, you are in a foreign country without a passport. Now THERE is motivation for being on time.) It’s a dangerous prospect, because it is so easy to just present the card for payment at a shop, at the bar – which, of course, is the idea. Tips for the staff are added on to your final bill at the rate of 8 euro a day – which is reasonable – but the small print notes that you can go to the reception desk and change the amount of the tip. Very small print.

Enough. I will share more of the wonders of life aboard the ship tomorrow. We arrive in Istanbul around 4 – although I did not sign up for the “Istanbul by night” tour, nor for the full day tour on Sunday. (105 euro – not an option.)