FRIDAY - OCTOBER 15

October 15 – Friday. One thing we have learned in Greece (besides that there is no such thing as a deadline – except when you’re on the ship) is that plans change. Up and down for breakfast as the place opened. No one else came, and I was able to have a lovely breakfast and enjoy reading while I ate. Shower and shave – have I mentioned that I have yet to get used to this barbaric (you should pardon the expression) custom of starting the day by dragging a blade across your face? Sigh. And on to the cathedral for Mass. No sign of the sacristan, so I found vestments, and found the hosts, got the sacramentary and lectionary ready – the advantage of having been there two days before. He showed up as I was almost ready to go out. We chatted – the value of a good education that included French – and Mass we was lovely. At the end someone mentioned that our guide, Yani, had said there would be a later departure time than previously announced (See what I mean about plans?) I strolled back, and Yani called my room – seems the Acropolis was going to be open this morning, so we would check out of the hotel around noon, and go to the acropolis, with a stop at Mars Hill, and then on to the boat. And – to make things even nicer – the weather was turning absolutely gorgeous.

I took advantage of the extra time to pack and do some work on the computer, since I wasn’t entirely sure about the internet on the boat. I knew it would be available, but since I had paid for it, I thought I might as well take advantage of it. I checked out the ship which whetted my appetite, and before I knew it, it was time to head out.

Gentle bus ride to the acropolis park (through which I had walked yesterday) and we’re starting to recognize things along the way. The indefatigable, knowledgeable and non-stop talking Mara was with us again. The walk up the hill was out of the range of a couple of the group, so Yanni stayed with them, and we set off. It’s a gentle slope, but slippery and not an easy go in some places. Well, I mean a strapping man like me had no problem with it, but for some, it could have proved a challenge. Two of the four blind members were along with us and they certainly had no problem with the climb.

We stopped en route to look at the musical stadium, which was built by a Roman general in memory of his young wife, and which is still used today for concerts and major events. Mrs. Mara had a drawing of what the place looked like when it was built, with a roof and statues filling all of the back niches – really quite impressive. Seats around 5,000.

Now we had been looking at the Parthenon for several days – in pictures, across the city from the roof of the hotel, from the museum – and we had talked about Parthenon, and many of us knew things about the Parthenon already. So I was really not prepared for what an impression it made to be standing there. Knowing all the mathematics and odd bits about the building increases the sense of wonder, but if I were to have known nothing at all, I am sure that the sheer size and beauty of the building and the site and the realization of how old it is would still have taken my breath away. What they did – in the space of nine years (Yes, that’s how long it took to build – they had money and so they were able to work – at 2,000 years before Christ, mind you – at a pretty good speed. Mrs. Mara said she did not think the building could be duplicated today, and certainly not in that time frame.)

I could overwhelm you with facts and data and stuff you can perfectly well go and read for yourself. At some point I might sit down and do some of that. But right now, I have to confess, the strongest memory is not the data but the image of those huge columns against a gorgeous blue sky, sitting on top of a mountain, overlooking a huge city.

We met as scheduled – well, sort of on schedule – and visited Mars Hill, which is on the way down. Mars Hill? This is the place where Paul preached to the men of Athens, delivering his famous (ie described in the Acts of the Apostles) sermon about having found an altar to “the unknown god.” It’s an impressive rock – and the only solid tie to St. Paul of the day. Before we knew it, time to head off for the boat.

Check in was gentle and easy – the welcome on the boat impressive – the cabin is lovely. We just about had time to get settled in, and suddenly it was time for the lifeboat drill. From there we went to a meeting about life on the boat and the optional tours at the sites we will be visiting, and then it was time for dinner. Well, after the official meeting by the boat people, Yanni talked to us again and pushed people to make their choices about tours. They’re not cheap and that is a concern for some. Not for me – I just can’t go, so that’s actually fairly easy. Exploring Istanbul by myself is a little daunting – but as long as I get back to the ship before it leaves, how much trouble can I get into?

Yanni had arranged for a private dining area for our group – well, for all but two who had decided they wanted the later seating for dinner. Had they not, we probably would not have fit into this space. But it’s very nice and everyone seems pleased. Stressed about the tour choices having to be mad but it’s settling in.

Life on the ship. Well, not everything is exactly as advertised. The information was that internet facilities would be available on the ship. And they are. At 15 euro for one hour. That’s about $23. The information was that smoking was only permitted on deck and in one of the lounges. Fair enough. Only when one gets on board does the small print appear – It is not permitted to smoke cigars or pipes on board. Well dang. The ticket is inclusive – your meals are included, and coffee and water. Soft drinks and fruit juices and specialty coffees (like cappuccino or espresso) those are extra, as are hard drinks. I signed up for an all inclusive ticket – one fee to cover all your drinks for the full 7 days.  WhenI first saw the plan, I thought it was excessive. But when I sat down to do the arithmetic, especially considering the non-alcoholic drinks – well, we’ll see how it comes out, because I did sign up. So I had a drink in the lounge, and a glass of champagne with dinner. I’ll have to do more drinking tomorrow to make up.

There are shows and events not only each night but each moment. I am saying Mass on board in the library, and for Sunday, they are going to announce that Catholic Mass is available. I have NO idea how many people may show up for that – I hope I don’t run out of hosts. There is also – wait for it – a passenger talent show night. Contrary to what the casual reader might think, my first instinct is to become invisible. The range of “talent” is going to tend to modern songs and American Idol wannabe’s. It would be a nice way to get the name “Xavier Society for the Blind” in front of people – but my instinct is still to become invisible. We’ll see.

I like sailing. Or whatever the appropriate term is for moving across the water on a ship that carries 1,200 people. (We are on a ship called Crystal, of the Louis line, if you want to see the ship for yourself. Although at 15 euro an hour, it might all be over before I get the chance to send this up to the blog site so you can actually see it.) The vibration of the engine passes throughout the ship and in a very few moments will lull me to sleep. I did not go to the show this evening – A Mamma Mia night, melodies of Abba – nor did I go to the Bingo (5 euro a card) nor to the disco party nor to any of the other half dozen things going on. Fuddy duddy that I am. But we are passing through the Dardenelles around 6:30 in the morning, and I sort of think I want to be up for that.

We turned in our passports, and we each have a card, like a hotel key card, and it does open the door to my cabin. It also acts as a ship wide charge card, and will be used to check us off and on the boat. (Note – this means that if you miss the boat, not only are you left behind and on your own, you are in a foreign country without a passport. Now THERE is motivation for being on time.) It’s a dangerous prospect, because it is so easy to just present the card for payment at a shop, at the bar – which, of course, is the idea. Tips for the staff are added on to your final bill at the rate of 8 euro a day – which is reasonable – but the small print notes that you can go to the reception desk and change the amount of the tip. Very small print.

Enough. I will share more of the wonders of life aboard the ship tomorrow. We arrive in Istanbul around 4 – although I did not sign up for the “Istanbul by night” tour, nor for the full day tour on Sunday. (105 euro – not an option.)